Interior Trim

A coped joint is the most elegant and durable way to join interior trim at a room's inside corners.  One piece of trim is cut square and meets the corner while the other is cut to meet the profile of the first.  
To make the joint, I first miter the correct end of a piece of trim stock to expose the profile as below.  

I use a coping saw (the tool in the picture above) to saw away the majority of the waste.  This operation need not be exact.  Rather, I aim to leave 1/16th of an inch and use an assortment of files to perfect the profile.  

This is how the joint meets up:

Here is another example of a coped joint.  Here I am installing picture molding, an old style of crown molding and the profile is more complex.  

cut the miter

the profile is revealed

cut away the waste

it's helpful to check the joint's fit on a scrap

Exterior Painting

My process for exterior maintenance repainting or restaining is as follows.

Before I begin, I remove the storm windows.  

Next, I scrape any loose or cracked paint, stain, caulk, window glazing, and other materials.  I identify areas in need of repair and likely causes of the various paint failures.  For instance, if paint is peeling in large sheets on the outside of a bathroom wall, I would think that moisture from the bathroom may have caused the failure.  A vent fan may be in order.  Or, if paint is peeling in large strips uniformly and the lap boards in wood siding have been caulked where they overlap (a common mistake in house painting) the caulk must be removed.  The siding must be able to "breath" out water vapor trapped in the house.  If the paint has peeled immaturely, as in the case of isolated or systemic moisture related peeling, I feather the edges between the bare wood and the paint with a sander to reduce the visual impact of the transition and ensure optimal adhesion.  

Second, I replace or repair siding or trim as necessary and recommend modifications, where applicable, to better protect the deteriorated areas in the future.  

Third, I wash every surface of the house.  For this step, I use detergent, bleach, and a scrub brush.  I do not use a power washer.  I strongly prefer the control, thoroughness, and limited saturation offered by washing a house by hand.  Water and dirt are not forced into the wood, allowing faster drying, less damage to wood fibers, a closer inspection process, and a cleaner house.  

Once the moisture meter indicates that the house is dry enough to appropriately accept paint, I begin priming.  I prime all areas or parts depending on the condition of the house.  

After priming, I apply glazing compound if restoring original windows.  

Next, I brush two coats on the trim and windows.  Finally, I roll on and brush out two coats on the siding.  I brush out paint because, in my experience, it seems to provide the best coverage with the least unnecessary paint build up, the best adhesion and, in my opinion, the best appearance possible.  

Last, I wash the window sashes, storm panes and screens, make any necessary repairs or replacements, and put the storm windows back in.  

Repairing Broken Trim

If you prefer to repair rather than replace a broken piece of trim, here is a method that works great and is quick.

This window sill was broken and the piece that broke off was lost.  

Make a template out of cardboard by tracing and then cutting out the shape of the missing piece.  

Trace the template onto a piece of wood of the appropriate thickness and cut it out as close as you can.  Before you cut, check to see if the edge broke at an angle.  It usually does and it helps to try to replicate this angle in the "patch" you are cutting out.  Check the patch for fit and, if you like what you see, use a router to shape the front of the patch to match the trim, if applicable.  

Nail on the patch and fill any gaps with wood 

Sand the wood filler.  

Then, prime and paint or, if you must, stain and varnish.  Repairing trim works best with painted trim, however, since the variation in grain and any wood filler will not be visible.

Decks, Porches, and Steps

Whether you're in need of a new deck, an upgrade to your current porch or deck, or repairs, Jane of All Trades can work with you to create a custom solution designed to fit your style and lifestyle.

Salvaged antique railings help the new first floor porch blend in with the building's architecture.  

New front steps are anchored in solid concrete footings to provide safe and sturdy access to this old house's front porch.   

A long lasting and attractive back deck starts with accurate layout and sturdy framing.  

Repairing Plaster

The traditional method of repairing plaster involves applying several thick coats of wet plaster to build up the final thickness of the plaster.  These coats require materials not generally available, a lot of experience, and a lot of time for drying.  I prefer a time saving method that uses drywall to patch the area.  Here is how it's done.

First, mark a square area where the plaster will be removed.  It is nice if the area you take out is square, straight, and parallel because it will be much easier to cut the drywall to fit in the space.  Take your time on this step, any gaps between the drywall and plaster are areas you'll be filling later!

Next, use a sharp chisel (but spare your best woodworking chisel, this will beat up the chisel) and a hammer to cut a line in the plaster along the line you marked in pencil.  This isolates the section of plaster to be removed so that no other plaster will be damaged as you break out the unwanted section.

Once the area is isolated, hit it with the hammer to break it up and remove the plaster.

Continue removing the plaster until the entire area is clear.  It is not necessary to remove the "keys," the part of the plaster that is between and behind the wooden lath.  It is, however, necessary to scrape the keys flush with the wood.  Any high spots will show as humps in the drywall or even possibly damage the surface.  Look out for nails as you go and wear a mask, this is dusty work.

Once all the plaster is removed, you need to determine what thickness of drywall to use.  I often generate scraps of 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch from other projects, so I usually use these to patch plaster.  3/8 inch drywall is also available.  If you don't have an exact match, always go with a drywall that is thinner than the surrounding plaster, it is easier to fill this way.

Screw the drywall to the lath and, if you can, the framing.  If lath is missing or not strong enough and your patch is very small, you may be able to use screws to anchor wood to the good plaster and lath on the sides of the patch.  Once the wood "nailers" are secure, you can carefully screw drywall to them.

Finish the drywall as you ordinarily would.  I prefer paper tape for this job, however, because you don't have a taper like you do when finishing drywall to drywall and paper tape requires a shallower seam.

Above is the patch having been primed.  In this case, I taped the seams (first coat of drywall compound) and then simply applied a dappled drywall compound texture to the entire surface (second coat).  This was quick and easy and helped the patch blend into the surrounding plaster because the homeowners had decided to leave some of the rough texture of the plaster after removing wallpaper.

Also, it's worth mentioning the insulation that you can see in the picture above.  Don't skip this!  Once you've got the wall opened up and, especially, if you have the trim off, ask yourself if you have an opportunity to weatherize your home!  Check out how this window looked on the outside after the spray foam finished expanding:

Trim the excess foam with a utility knife and/or sharp scraper.  

Here's another example.  In this case, some plaster crumbled when a hole was cut out for a new light switch.  

Using the electrical box as a guide, I cut the drywall to fit and screwed it to the lath.  Drywall screws driven through the plaster anchor it to the lath.  Drilling screws through plaster calls for extreme care.  If the plaster cracks, you'll have to remove and replace it, too.  Make sure the area you're drilling into isn't weak, pre-drill, and don't overdrive the screw.   

Finish the seams with paper tape for fast coverage and a flat patch.